The Basket Case Gets Going
I have started rebuilding the engine. This will be a work in progress and as I get to stages of the rebuild, I will show pictures and offer my thoughts as I go along.
The first thing I noticed is that there was a huge mud dauber nest covering the entire rear of the PTO head. The blockage this causes would surely allow the engine to overheat in this critical area.
The previous segment suggested that the solid coupler on the engine to the rear drive shaft is hard on the crank bearings. I have gotten the engine to the point of externally checking this and found my guess to be correct.
A slow rotation of the crank in the silence of my garage shows a distinct clicl, click, click as I rotate the crank. This is a result of the rear bearing/s having no bearing separator left. The balls all get together and push each other 'over the top' as the crank is turned. It is a very distinct noise.
Also, the shaft in the rear where the prop mounts is the older hollow shaft. This is not a major problem but it is good to know the difference.
Also, I took a picture of the hex key in the engine shaft coupler along with the small crank retention pin installed in the fuel pump pulse hole. I get several questions about what this for. The pin engages a small notch in the rear counterweight and holds the crank from turning whilst you remove the coupler bolt.
There is a tool for the front also. It should NOT be used to hold the crank for removing bolts at the rear of the engine. To do so would place the torque of the bolt throughout the whole crank, possibly twisting it out of alignment.
Likewise, the small pin at the rear should NOT be used to remove the rather large crank nut from the front.
I should have the rest apart this afternoon, and clean a bunch up for the reassembly. A trip to the airport to get the gaskets and seals will also be required.
For the next segment, go to Basket 4